Samsung TV Makes Clicking Sound and Won't Turn On
Samsung LCD TV's have a known problem with capacitors going bad. If your Samsung LCD won't turn on, or makes repeated clicking sounds, there is a very good chance that you can save hundreds of dollars doing this simple repair yourself.
I know, I know. You're thinking, "Tinker inside my LCD HDTV. Are you crazy?" No, I'm not crazy. This is a repair almost anyone can do.
You sit down and get comfortable, ready to watch your favorite TV show or movie. You turn on your TV and...nothing! Unsure if you hit the power button, you try again...again, nothing! But you do notice a clicking sound emanating from your TV.
"What the heck? No...Oh, crap!"
HDTV's aren't cheap. Most of us have to save, or at least be prepared to spend $1000-$2000 on new one. Heck, I'm sure many of you don't savor the idea of spending a few hundred on repairs. Well, I have bad news and good news.
The bad news is that you're the lucky owner of a Samsung LCD HDTV that has a known problem with capacitors going bad after 2 to 3 years, and If you did not purchase an extended warranty, then you might be headed for a $200-$400 repair bill.
The good news is this repair is actually quite simple, and with only a few basic tools and $3.98, you can have your TV working in less than an hour.
The step-by-step repair below was done on my Samsung LN46A550 46" LCD HDTV, but this is a known issue for any Samsung 550 & 650 series TV. This guide may also help you with any brand of LCD as bad capacitors are very prevalent in modern electronics. You know the old saying, "They sure don't make 'em like that anymore." Well, they don't, and I for one think this is very intentional. These companies sell at razor thin profit margins and they need you to upgrade every few years.
Well today, we win! With just a little bit of effort, very little skill, and just a few bucks, you'll be watching TV in about an hour.
You will only need four items for this repair:
- phillips screwdriver
- wire cutters
- soldering iron (and maybe some solder)
Need a soldering iron? No problem. They are cheap and easy to use.
If you're looking for a better quality soldering iron, you can also try the . Like anything else, you get what you pay for, so if you want to use better tools on your expensive TV, it can never hurt to spend a few more dollars. Weller SP40LK 40 Watt Soldering Iron Kit
The is inexpensive but will work. With its lower wattage, make sure to let the iron fully heat up and make sure to allow the iron to fully melt the solder! Most mistakes in electronic repair are from forcing components in/out of non-molten solder. TEKTON 7266 30-Watt Soldering Iron
Get your replacement capacitors now for the quickest repair.
Got everything you need? Time to dig in!
Step 1: Remove Stand
After unplugging everything on the TV, you will need to remove the stand. If your TV was wall mounted you will need to remove the TV from the wall, and remove the mounting bracket from the back of the TV.
Red arrows: Remove these 4 screws to remove stand from TV.
Blue arrows: Remove these 4 screws to remove a wall mount (not shown) from your TV.
The TV sits on top and inside the stand, so it wont just flop over when you remove the stand screws, but it's always safer to have a friend hold the TV upright as you remove the screws from the stand. Then each of you grab a side and carefully lay it flat on a carpeted surface.
Step 2: Remove All Screws That Attached the Back Casing of the TV
When handling your TV always keep it straight up (like your watching it) or laid flat. Any force applied at odd angles can damage the fragile glass front.
Dont Forget These
TV With Back Casing Removed
The area we will be working on is indicated. See "Step 3" for an enlargement.
Step 3: Remove Wiring Harnesses From Circuit Board
Remove the 7 different wiring harness located on the circuit board. A simple tug on the connector clip (not the wiring) should be sufficient to remove them.
Step 4: Remove Screws Holding Down Circuit Board
Remove the 6 screws shown on the picture above and remove the circuit board from the TV chassis. This board is a power supply board and not particularly sensitive, but it is always a good habit to handle these boards carefully and by the edges.
Identifying Bad Capacitors
Usually, but not always, capacitors will show visible signs of failure. There are two main types of visible failure.
When it fails, the chemical reaction inside the capacitor can produce hydrogen gas, so capacitors have vents cut into the tops of their aluminum cans. These are intended to break and release the gas that has built up inside the capacitor. So, a capacitor which has failed can show bulging at the top. Below are a few examples.
Another sign of a failed capacitor is leaking fluid (electrolyte). This can be an orange or brownish discharge from either the top or bottom of the capacitor. Usually, with leaking the capacitor will also be bulging. But a capacitor can bulge but not leak.
Again, we want to emphasize that capacitors do not always show visible signs of failure. But, if you see signs of this on your board, you can be confident that you're close to fixing your TV. If you don't see these signs of failure, but your TV had the tell-tail clicking sound, you still can be fairly certain the the steps below will fix your TV.
Step 5: Identifying the Problem Capacitors
If you have a Samsung 550 Series LCD (and perhaps other models), and you came to this site because your TV won't start, and it makes a clicking sound, then the picture above shows the capacitors that should be replaced in the red box. If you have a different make or model you will need to visually inspect and replace any damaged capacitors.
Below are actual closeups of my TV's board. Notice how the blue capacitors in the foreground are bulging. These are the capacitors I will replace. All other capacitors look OK. If you can find replacements for all 4 of these capacitors, and any others that show visual signs of going bad, I recommend replacing them all while your in here.
I couldn't find the specific replacements for the "black" capacitors (820 uf 25V) at my local electronic store, and since they looked OK, I just replaced the the bulging ones. But again, if you can find replacements, and since the capacitors are cheap, replace all 4 of these if possible (and any other ones showing signs of damage) while your working in here.
Step 6: Remove Capacitors
Capacitors have polarity. What this means is, like a battery, they have a positive (+) and a negative (-) side. Before removing any capacitor, note which side the white stripe of the capacitor is facing. You will need to put in the new capacitor in the same direction. You probably noted on my pictures that I actually made a note on the aluminum heat sink with a pen.
Now that you've identified the capacitors that look bad, turn the board over and carefully identify exactly which points on the board the wire leads from the these capacitors. Circle them with a "sharpie" type pen to keep track.
Grab your friend and have them help you on this next step. Balancing the circuit board on its side while using a hot soldering iron and pliers can be a bit tricky.
Plug in the soldering iron and give it 10 minutes to get hot.
With the circuit board on its edge, have your friend grab one of the capacitors with the pliers and apply a very gentle pulling pressure. Apply the tip of the soldering iron to one lead on the back side of the board and hold it there until you see the solder melt. Now switch to the other lead until it melts. Keep going back and forth on the leads. Each time the solder will melt faster. After going back and forth a couple times the capacitor will easily come out.
Repeat for each capacitor that you are replacing.
Let the iron do the work. If the capacitor does not easily pull out, do not force it.
Step 7: Time to Go Shopping
Capacitors are rated for their application and you must replace like for like. There are 3 ratings to identify:
1. uF (micro farads)
You must match uF and the temperature rating exactly. There is a bit of wiggle room on the voltage, but only if you're increasing it. Do not replace a capacitor with a lower voltage rating then the one removed.
Often you can find replacements capacitors at your local Radio Shack. My Radio Shack did not have suitable replacements so I had to go to a different electronic store. If all else fails, and you can wait, you can always buy replacements from Amazon.com.
You'll notice that this particular capacitor is 1000 uF, 105 degrees and 10 Volts. I replaced it with a capacitor that is 1000 uF, 105 degrees and 16 Volts. I've seen this repair successful with a capacitor up to 25 Volts, but I wouldn't go any higher than that.
Step 8: Time to Install New Capacitors
Insert capacitor, making sure to place the negative side in the correct location. If there is hard solder in the hole, simply apply the soldering iron until solder melts and slip capacitor leads in.
Bend back the leads to hold the capacitor in place.
Carefully clip the leads so that only about 1/8" is protruding.
Place your soldering iron and solder on lead until the heat melts the solder. Once solder melts onto the lead, apply the iron on the lead and solder a few times to melt the solder cleanly on the lead. If you have solder flux, the solder will make a clean connection.
Capacitors installed. If there is any flux or solder residue, simply clean the area with a damp cloth.
Step 9: Reverse the Process
1. Attached the circuit board with the six screws.
2. Reattach all seven wiring harnesses.
3. Replace the back cover.
4. Turn on TV and be happy that you save yourself a ton of money.
This fix works. It worked for me, and it worked for dozens of people reading this article. Check out the comments below!